Geopolitical chessboard Ukraine

Just as the pandemic was almost over in The Netherlands, mainly due to our high vaccination rate & effectiveness, and natural immunity, the Russian president Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin started a geopolitical game of chess which effectively ended the post-Cold War era of relative peace in Europe. It was Thursday morning 24 February 2022. I cursed when I woke up.

The 2022 invasion of Ukraine was just an escalation of the Russo-Ukrainian War of 2014 which ended as a frozen conflict in 2015. Russia has waged a cyberwar against Ukraine at least since 2014. Read: Sandworm: A New Era of Cyberwar and the Hunt for the Kremlin's Most Dangerous Hackers (2019) by Andy Greenberg.

Putin’s invasion of Ukraine has deep global geopolitical implications. A successful campaign in Ukraine might have emboldened Xi Jinping to take military action to control Taiwan.

The Financial Times cartoon.

The owners of the company I work for immediately thought of ways to help Ukraine. Donation of money for humanitarian aid was a no-brainer. Within a week we decided to donate the profits of the webshop of the month March to Giro555. We also crowdfunded money for a first transport to the Polish-Ukrainian border. We bought calorie dense food for fighters on the front and as many night vision goggles we could possibly buy. Just three days after the start of the war I agreed to be a back-up driver for the first transport, and maybe more to come, so I cancelled my plans for my springtime holiday.

Social Media

The Vietnam War was the first war broadcast on television while the Gulf War of 1991 was the first war being live broadcast. Who can forget the green blurry images of the night vision cameras as the first artillery hit Bagdad? The 2022 Russian war against Ukraine is the first true social media war. Not only does information spread instantly via Telegram, Twitter or WhatsApp, the Diia App (“Action”) made by the Ministry of Digital Transformation in 2020 helped the Ukrainian army target the enemy. The Diia app was quickly tailored towards the war and allows ordinary Ukrainians to submit location-tagged photos and videos of Russian military sightings.

Der Krieg ist das Gebiet der Ungewißheit; drei Vierteile derjenigen Dinge, worauf das Handeln im Kriege gebaut wird, liegen im Nebel einer mehr oder weniger großen Ungewißheit.
— Carl von Clausewitz: Vom Kriege

SpaceX Starlink War

But the Russo-Ukrainian War of 2022 might be best remembered as the first SpaceX Starlink War. Just before the war started Russia knocked out tens of thousands of KA-SAT SATCOM terminals by a suspected cyber attack. Within days of the war Elon Musk activated the Starlink service and sent a number of receiver kits to Ukraine.

To generate more crowdfunding money we requested photo’s and video’s from Ukrainians receiving our equipment. And so they did. Below is an Ukrainian soldier with one of our night vision goggles.

Battlefield Effectiveness in Authoritarian Regimes

The Russian army was not so mighty as seemed on paper. Tanks are just heavy chunks of metal without personal and strategy. This was not a first for Russia. In the first big war of the 20th century, the Russo-Japanese War, the Russian army also proved much less effective than thought. This war started with the Russian demand for the establishment of a neutral buffer zone between Russia and Japan in Korea north of the 39th parallel. The Imperial Japanese navy subsequently attacked. Nicholas II of Russia refused to submit to a humiliating peace with Japan, which was victorious in most battles. US President Theodore Roosevelt had to mediate a treaty between Russian and Japan, which resulted in the 1905 Russian Revolution, which set the stage for the 1917 Russian Revolutions.

Vladimir Putin seems to have made the mistake only an authoritarian leader can make, or American neocons just before the 2003 invasion of Iraq. He didn’t understand the enemy. It has become clear that he thought of the ‘special operation’ as a non-military operation. The imagined ‘regime’ in Kyiv would quickly fall and the Ukrainians would greet the Russian soldiers as liberators. This explains the poor military planning. Putin ignored the long quest for national identity among Ukrainians. He seems to have completely misinterpreted the Orange Revolution of 2004 - 2005 and the Maidan Revolution in 2014. The Ukrainians clearly rejected closer ties with Russia and were looking West towards the EU as a future path for the nation. Ukrainian values aligned with Europe and not with Russia.

Lies

An authotoritan leader has to lie to his people to stay in power. This greatly reduces battlefield effectiveness. Who wants to die for a lie? The propaganda was that the United States were going out nuclear weapons in Ukraine. Many Russian soldiers left their tanks and BTR’s (armoured personnel carrier) when they realised they have not been told the truth.

Read: The Dictator's Army: Battlefield Effectiveness in Authoritarian Regimes by Caitlin Talmadge, Cornell University Press (2015).

Russian prisoner of war being interviewed by an Ukrainian journalist.

Below a video made by an Ukrainian fighting group thanking us, and my employer by name, for the equipment we sent.

Putin governs Russia like a crime syndicate and money which should have been spent on the military was stolen and transferred out of Russia. This left the army with antiquated tanks, dangerous infantry fighting vehicles and a Black Sea flagship which was not modernised as planned in 2016. The Russian cruiser Moskva was sunk on 14 April. Even Hitler was smart enough to rename the German cruiser Deutschland to Lützow just before the war so when sunk, it wouldn’t function as a symbol.

Russia and Ukraine are both part of the Western Steppe. The Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth was established in 1569 and the eastern border of the Commonwealth of Poland still marked the political landscape of Ukraine in 2010. In 2022 new lines are drawn.

Hermannsweg

I spent my last days of my 2021 holiday allowance not far from the Teutoburger Wald in Germany. On top of the ridge of this middle mountain range lies the 156 kilometre long walking path Hermannsweg. It would take a full three days to walk the whole length. I only walked a small part. In the past I have walked many other parts of the path. The geology of this mountain range is very interesting.

It was formed around 70 million years ago when the African tectonic plate pushed against the Eurasian tectonic plate. At least it was assumed by geologists for a long time that the Alps were also formed by a proces of the southern tectonic plate bulldozing against the northern plate. But geophysicist Edi Kissling and sediment specialist Fritz Schlunegger have proposed a different theory. It is called the lift theory. If true the forces creating the Teutoburger Wald were more complicated than a simple push of a tectonic plate.

Islands in the sea

Germany in the late Cretaceous geological period called Maastrichtian, around 70 million years ago. The Cretaceous was a period with a relatively warm climate and The Netherlands and most of Germany was submerged under a warm ocean.

Osning-Sandstein

The first landmark you will pass, if you walk from west to east, are the Dörenther Klippen near Ibbenbüren. The jagged rocks are made of sandstone, 120 million year old (Early Cretaceous) sediment from the shallow sea around the Rheinische Masse (modern Sauerland, Eifel and Belgium Ardennes). The sandstone is called Osning-Sandstein. It was this sandstone which was pushed upwards 70 million years ago and formed the current landscape.

The fruit museum in Brochterbeck consists of a large piece of land with over a hundred different types of fruit trees with historic apple, pear, cherry and prune cultivars.

Looking for the Self

No matter how satisfied I should have been, being able to drive a very comfortable car to a beautiful spot in nature, it is hard to enjoy these moments alone. Every step I take in nature I still have to think about my last girlfriend, even though it has been many, many years since we walked together. I have to force myself to snap out of my gloomy thoughts. The last few years - even pre-pandemic - have been exceptionally lonely. But I kept myself busy so I wouldn’t notice. I took a 26-minute mindfulness meditation, led by Sam Harris on YouTube. Previously I have used his meditation Wake Up-app but I don’t like the subscription model. This is basically Vipassanā meditation. There is a path from Vipassanā to Chan Buddhism, which shares the notion of ‘sudden insight’. Sam Harris’ meditation deals with the problem of consciousness. What is consciousness? Is there a Self? Below a small excerpt from the 26-minute meditation. If felt much better afterwards.

[ eyes closed] 

“Everything that you notice is arising in the same space of consciousness. 

The sensations of your body, the sounds, feelings of fatigue or restlessness, whatever you sense or perceive is arising in consciousness in this moment.

Simply rest as that condition in which sounds and sensations and emotions arise and change and pass away. 

Take a moment to feel the sensations of your face and head. Perhaps it feels like your awareness is behind your face or in your head. But the feelings of your face and your head are in awareness in this moment. They are appearing in the same condition.

They are appearing in the same place where you are thinking. Your thoughts are not in your head, your awareness or conscious is not in your head. As a matter of experience everything is appearing moment by moment in consciousness. 

And this includes the feeling of having a head, of being behind your face, looking out at a world that is other than what you are.

In fact what you are calling the world is appearing in the same space.

Take a moment to open your eyes. And notice the apparent change in your experience. Now there is a sphere of light and color that you see. But what has changed?

What you see is appearing in the same space where thoughts and emotions and sensations and sounds are arising in each moment.”

“Your head must be very heavy, if you are carrying a rock like that in your mind.”

Vaccine tourism

With a new SARS‑CoV‑2 mutation on the rise the latest insights are that two vaccines do not give the protection you need against the new omicron mutation. Unfortunately the Dutch government has been criminally late preparing for a third ‘booster’ vaccine campaign. In early December I was likely to be vaccinated somewhere in February 2022, 8 months after my second dose. By that time it is likely omicron has completely overtaken delta. By that time I would have worked at the Spielwarenmesse (International Toy Fair) in Nürnberg meeting hundreds of people from all over the world. I consider the risk of being infected with omicron over this winter close to 100%. That’s an unacceptable risk. Not only for me but also for my father and all other residents in his care home where he is rehabilitating from his pneumonia. I do visit him every weekend.

Even within the European Union vaccination programs have been national. On December 5 I read on Twitter that there is a vaccination center in Aachen, Germany, with a different view point. RapidCare is a private vaccination center and being close to The Netherlands and Belgium they decided nationality does not matter. And why should it? We are all part of the EU, the QR-code is valid in all of the EU countries, no matter which nationality you are. RapidCare was only opened on 4 December 2021, so I read the news pretty fast thanks to Twitter. The vaccination was completely free as in gratis.

I quickly booked an appointment for December 16, the first day of my week off. I consider this week as a personal circuit breaker. When I return to work my booster vaccine is effective and by then we know a little more about omicron, I hope.

The vaccination center in downtown Aachen.

There was a thirty minute lag between the vaccination and being able to retrieve my QR-code at a German pharmacy so I took time to have an early lunch with Reibekuchen (also named Kartoffelpuffer) at the Aachen Christmas market. In Bavaria these are named Reiberdatschi and they are basically very finely grated potatoes, fried and served with apple sauce. They are a Christmas market favourite.

I cannot load my data in the Dutch CoronaCheck app so I am using the German Corona-Warn app. The QR-code is valid in the EU so this is no problem. One would hope there would be a tighter collaboration between the EU countries.

Korea Town in Düsseldorf

Düsseldorf is half way Aachen and Winterswijk so I took a small detour to downtown Düsseldorf for some shopping in one of the many Korean and Japanese grocery stores. There is also a large collection of Korean restaurants but it was Monday midday so I didn’t eat anywhere. Besides: I don’t enjoy eating solitary in restaurants and I have been eating alone too often now in the previous years. Koreans in Germany remain the second-largest group in Western Europe after the United Kingdom.

Hanaro market is one of the biggest Korean grocery stores. They have a pretty good selection. Unfortunately the table ware section was limited to the basics. I was happy to find myeongnanjeot 명란젓, fermented pollock roe. This is made by marinating the roe with salt, mirim, garlic, ginger and gochugaru 고추가루 for al least a couple of weeks.

Traditional Onggi (Korean: 옹기) for fermenting food.

Everything has its ending

Not only the leaves are falling in November. The Chief Officer has left his post for the foreseeable future, which leaves me to rake the leaves. I have no idea how this story will end. There are no navigational stars to guide us. I should learn to find Polaris. My father is an expert in celestial navigation. He could sail the world’s oceans just by using a sextant and his maps.

Local wine from Hesselink: a Souvignier Gris. Gerhard Ensing has made the vineyard his life’s work.

Altweibersommer

Maybe a better term would be ‘Indian summer’, since Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) are both native to New Engeland.

Time of day: 09:45 am.

The wisteria in the back garden.

The Dutch are famous for wooden shoes. So I got myself a pair of brand new clogs. These low type of clogs are typical for the Achterhoek and called “Achterhoekse Leertjes Klomp” because of the leather strap. Until 1927 these clogs were made completely by hand, that year a machine was bought to speed up the production.

They are made of poplar wood and handmade by fourth generation craftsman Herman ten Hagen. He adjusted the leather straps to fit my feet. They are incredibly comfortable and well made. I am considering buying a second spare pair because there might not be a fifth generation clog maker. In Japan this man would be an official national treasure.

The craft of making wooden clogs with the help of a machine is official Dutch intangible heritage. https://www.immaterieelerfgoed.nl/nl/machinaalklompenmaken

Herman ten Hagen.

Nieuw-Nederlandse aster

I am amazed how many plants in my father’s garden are originally non-native to Europe. Saturday morning I walked into a purple haze, another perennial started blooming in September. I identified the flower as Nieuw-Nederlandse aster. The English name is “New York aster” and the scientific name Symphyotrichum novi-belgii.

This perennial is native to eastern Canada and the eastern United States. The Dutch and Latin names refer to the 17th century Dutch colony New Netherland which was also called Nova Belgica or Novum Belgium in Latin.

Seeds of this plant must have been transported to The Netherlands by botanists and the Dutch West India Company. In the Flora Batava (published in 1800) the New York aster is already considered native to The Netherlands.

Plants tell an amazing story of global trade and bloody conquests. In 2021 the New York aster is a source of nectar for our local bees and butterflies.

Pieris rapae butterfly or “witje” in Dutch. Native to the Eastern Mediterranean in Europe this butterfly has spread all over the world by accidental introduction.

Pieris rapae butterfly or “witje” in Dutch. Native to the Eastern Mediterranean in Europe this butterfly has spread all over the world by accidental introduction.

New Netherland map published by Nicolaes Visscher II (1649–1702).

New Netherland map published by Nicolaes Visscher II (1649–1702).

Flora Batava 1800

Flora Batava 1800

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Porto Maurizio

Start here

I found a small and cheap camping just a few hundred meters from the beach in Porto Maurizio, which is part of the city Imperia. The city was created by Benito Mussolini on 21 October 1923 by combining Porto Maurizio and Oneglia and the surrounding village communes. Porto Maurizio can be reached by the Autostrada dei Fiori (A10) which is elevated high above the coastline.

Eating out when alone is always a bit of a challenge. In Sanremo I was flatly refused a table because I was alone. In Porto Maurizio the waiter of the first place I tried looked at me, our eyes met, I looked at quite a few empty tables, then he said everything was reserved. I had doubts. Another place named La Mirage, didn’t seem to mind a solitary guest. It turned out in all its simplicity this was an excellent choice.

I had noticed mussels were on the menu everywhere in Liguria, and I went for the impepata di cozze and a salad consisting of just one big sliced tomato. I had to try the trenette con pesto, fagiolini e patate because I had made this recipe at home a few years ago.

Impepata di cozze. Black peppered mussels.

Impepata di cozze. Black peppered mussels.

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Trenette con pesto, fagiolini e patate.

Trenette con pesto, fagiolini e patate.

O my soul, do not aspire to immortal life, but exhaust the limits of the possible.
— Pindar, Pythian iii

The first problem in philosophy is suicide, Albert Camus argues in the Myth of Sisyphus. The question whether life is worth living must be answered first. “All the rest— whether or not the world has three dimensions, whether the mind has nine or twelve categories—comes afterwards.”

I've often wondered why Anthony Bourdain answered that important question with ‘no’ one day. Camus: “It is always easy to be logical. It is almost impossible to be logical to the bitter end.”

Bourdain in Monopoli, Apulia. 'Parts Unknown', Southern Italy. Season 10, episode 9 (2017).

Bourdain in Monopoli, Apulia. 'Parts Unknown', Southern Italy. Season 10, episode 9 (2017).

Piazza Chiesa Vecchia

The hottest time of day is best spent on the old church square. The trees give some shade and its high elevation provides a cooling breeze. The people really love their plants. Potted plants are everywhere.

Few things are better than taking a swim just before aperitivo. Writing on a September morning in Amsterdam it is hard to reimagine the 30 degrees temperature when looking at the photo’s.

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Camping De Wijnstok. Strada Comunale Poggi, 2, 18100 Imperia IM. Despite the Dutch name nobody spoke Dutch and all my neighbours were Italian. For 13 euros a night quite cheap considering the close proximity to the beach.

Camping De Wijnstok. Strada Comunale Poggi, 2, 18100 Imperia IM. Despite the Dutch name nobody spoke Dutch and my neighbours were Italian. For 13 euro a night quite cheap considering the close proximity to the beach.

On the last morning I walked to the beach for a final swim in the Ligurian Sea just after sunrise. I didn’t want to go home. Posso stare in paradiso?

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Liguria

Arriving in Liguria from France everything seemed much lighter. The Ligurian Sea was quite calm. Possibly due to the coronavirus it seemed not too busy with tourists despite the month of August. I had planned to hike the Ligurian Alps but that plan was cancelled quickly, both for a practical reason - there was no suitable camping near the mountains - but the moment I saw the sea, I felt no need to do anything apart from just being.

Beach in Sanremo.

Beach in Sanremo.

Brioche and cappuccino

Brioche and cappuccino

Spaghetti alle vongole. Originallly this dish is made with vongole veraci (Venerupis decussata) which is found in the North Sea and Mediterranean Sea.

Spaghetti alle vongole. Originallly this dish is made with vongole veraci (Venerupis decussata) which is found in the North Sea and Mediterranean Sea.

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Claude Monet. Les Villas à Bordighera, En 1884. Musée d'Orsay

Claude Monet. Les Villas à Bordighera, En 1884. Musée d'Orsay

I spent my first nights away from the sea by driving to Pigna along the SP64. There are two villages you will pass: Isolabona and Dolceacqua. The last village is famous because of the nature of the architecture and a visit by Claude Monet in 1884.

Isolabona

Isolabona

Isolabona

Isolabona

Le Château de Dolceacqua, 1884 (oil on canvas) by Claude Monet (1840-1926). Musée Marmottan Monet, Paris, France.

Le Château de Dolceacqua, 1884 (oil on canvas) by Claude Monet (1840-1926). Musée Marmottan Monet, Paris, France.

Claude Monet Vallée de Sasso, effet de soleil, 1884.

Claude Monet Vallée de Sasso, effet de soleil, 1884.

Alpes-Maritimes

It took me two days to reach the French department Alpes-Maritimes via Nancy and Lyon (Autoroute du soleil: A7). Driving onward on the La Provençale A8, the area between Cannes and Nice was much more urban than I anticipated. Campings were wedged in between urban areas, only accessible through narrow mountain roads and more importantly: full. After almost two hours of searching (at one point I had been driving for more than 13 hours), and a waning sun, I found a camping and a spot for late arrivals. The earth was so hard I couldn't hammer my rock pegs in the ground so I slept under the stars next to my car.

When I left The Netherlands my head was still full with work and the weekly care for my father. I hadn’t made space for myself to plan ahead.

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The next morning I walked to the Mediterranean Sea and made the decision to head for a camping I had been to many years ago in the Parc national du Mercantour. Lately I’ve been making a point never to visit the same place twice, but I was tired of driving and I knew the camping in Saint-Martin-Vésubie was situated in a beautiful fruit orchard.

I probably had a romantic idea of the Côte d'Azur. The very least I expected to find more space. Currently there are almost a million people living in the Nice metropolitan area. It’s a busy place with bustling traffic, which gives you no time to pause.

Le Gendarme de Saint-Tropez (1964)

Le Gendarme de Saint-Tropez (1964)

Saint-Martin-Vésubie

The camping was everything I remembered it to be. The last time it was springtime, with some patches of snow just above the tree line at 2300 meters. This time the sunlight was harsh. The camping is situated just outside the 12th century village. It’s no more than a 10 minute walk to the village square.

Camping A La Ferme St. Joseph, Rte de Nice, 06450 Saint-Martin-Vésubie

Camping A La Ferme St. Joseph, Rte de Nice, 06450 Saint-Martin-Vésubie

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Tripes à la Niçoise
Saint-Martin-Vésubie has some really nice butchers and artisanal food shops. I’m probably the only Dutchman who likes tripe. I found the following recipe which corresponds with the ingredients on the jar I bought: Heat olive oil in a pot over medium heat and add cow’s tripe (first blanche the tripe in water with vinegar for 20 seconds). Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in white wine, tomatoes, carrot, garlic, onions, thyme, bayleaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 8 hours.

View of the camping from the road.

View of the camping from the road.

Souffle de la nature

On October 2 in 2020 storm Alex hit the region above Nice. Within 24 hours 571 millimeters rain fell causing a gigantic flood, which swept away a large part of the river Vésubie and its surroundings. Almost a year later most of the rouble wasn’t cleared up and many houses were still inhabitable. The ancient part of the village was spared because it was built on an elevation.

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There is one view point from the camping, which hides the destruction of the storm.

There is one view point from the camping, which hides the destruction of the storm.

Mountain hike Cime de la Palu (2.132) - Cime de Clapeirette (2.333).

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Mountain hike Forêt Communale de Saint-Martin-Vésubie - le Boreon

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Perfect ripe and much tastier than you get in Amsterdam: pêche plat et prune jaune.

Perfect ripe and much tastier than you get in Amsterdam: pêche plat et prune jaune.

Road trip Liguria

Autoroute du Soleil - Antibes - Saint-Martin-Vésubie (Alpes-Maritimes) - Monaco - Imperia (Liguaria) - Piemonte - Switzerland - Deutsche Weinstraße

A few days before I was bound to leave for Austria the weather prediction was not good: a fair chance of rain and the temperatures dropped from 30 degrees Celsius to just 20 in Salzburg. I quickly changed gears and took the Autoroute du Soleil to the Côte d'Azur or whatever.

First stop: Alpes-Maritimes

"The dictator is coming"

With these words European Commission President Jean-Claude Juncker welcomed Hungary's Viktor Orbán at a summit in Riga, Latvia in 2015. International flights are still not an option so I have to plan my holiday in the European Union for a second year in a row. My default plan was to go hiking in the Alps but suddenly this felt like a lonely version of Groundhog Day. Life has been too boring lately and I don’t want to repeat myself.

It’s been some time since I visited one of the Central and Eastern European countries, so the idea of Hungary came to my mind. Politically this destination is much more interesting than the Alps. In 2018 the European Parliament passed a motion declaring that Hungary is at risk of breaching the EU’s core values, resulting in a successful vote for an Article 7 procedure against Hungary. But so far Hungary has evaded sanctions. I strongly support the European Union’s fundamental values.

Maybe change will come. In 2022 there will be a Hungarian parliamentary election with the opposition parties running together as a front against Viktor Orbán’s Fidesz. In August 2021 the opposition parties will hold a primary election to select the candidate for Prime Minister. This primary could coincide with my stay.

Nonetheless, Hungary has provincial cities I’ve never visited before, plenty of hills to hike, a wine producing region, stuffed cabbage (töltött káposzta) and I’m sure in August the Hungarian beer (sör) will be cold as ice.

Eastern Partnership summit, Riga, 21-22 May 2015. “Hello dictator!”

Eastern Partnership summit, Riga, 21-22 May 2015. “Hello dictator!”

Turning dark red on the map

I have planned my holiday in August and I’m not even sure if I will be welcome in Hungary by the end of summer. The European Centre for Disease Prevention and Control (EDCD) has already coloured Noord-Holland orange on its map in support of the Council Recommendation on a coordinated approach to travel measures in the EU because of a combined indicator: the 14-day notification rate, testing rate and test positivity are showing high numbers.

At the current rate of infections it’s likely that on 14 July some provinces will turn red on the map (the next update will be based on data until 13 July). After that The Netherlands will turn dark red if no measures are enforced. The map is meant as a travel advice for the European countries but it quite possible some safe green countries will close the borders again.

How did we get here (again)? Just when the SARS-CoV-2 Delta variant infection rate was growing in The Netherlands, the demissionary cabinet announced that most restrictions are cancelled from 26 June. This resulted in a very high growth rate of delta very, very quickly. This was no surprise to me after following the data from India since April. The Westminster Tory government didn’t block flights from India in May and via holiday destinations in Portugal and Spain the delta variant established itself in The Netherlands in June before the restrictions were lifted.

This is all so predictable I’m not even angry. I might have to cancel my holiday plans again, or maybe my QR-code showing the validity of my two vaccinations will stay valid for travel within the EU over the summer. All I can say is “kismet”. [ Edit: a few days later I have to admit I’m livid at the government. 🤬 ]

Beautiful as long as it lasted. ECDC level ‘green’. All 3 days. @YorickB

Beautiful as long as it lasted. ECDC level ‘green’. All 3 days. @YorickB

My summer holiday is like the fruit for Tantalus.

My summer holiday is like the fruit for Tantalus.

Combined indicator: 14-day notification rate, testing rate and test positivity, updated 15 July 2021

End of springtime

Most springtime flowers are gone expect bright red poppy’s. This is the time to aggressively prune some bushes, because I missed the opportunity in March, and weed undesirable plants. Everything grows so fast. This also is the time to prune early bloomers like brem and sering.

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Sweet and sour pickled vegetables from Bogor, West-Java.

Julienne carrot and half-ripe papaya.
Slice cucumber.
Dice ketela rambat merah (sweet potato) and bengkwang in small cubes.
Cut white cabbage in strips.

Make a spice paste out of 100 gram ebi (dried shrimp), 0.5 liter water, 5 red lombok, 100 gram sugar. Before making the paste soak the ebi in the water. Reserve the water.

Grind the soaked ebi, lombok and sugar to a paste and mix with the water and 100 milliliter vinegar. Add some salt.

Mix everything with the vegetables and let it pickle for al least one night. Before serving fry some peanuts and sprinkle over the asinan.

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The grass in the front yard was getting really high. I postponed mowing the grass as long a I could for biodiversity and the insects. So many tiny flowers!

The grass in the front yard was getting really high. I postponed mowing the grass as long a I could for biodiversity and the insects. So many tiny flowers!

Mapping a garden

It’s time for a scientific approach. I will have to map all major plants to even know what’s growing in the garden. Plant names according to Linnaean taxonomy or in Dutch.

Front yard:

Side yard:

Back yard:

Annual plants:

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∞ Mystic Garden ∞

∞ Mystic Garden ∞

A garden should be a living garden. “Spargelzeit”, was a tradition each springtime when the asparagus are in season. Fresh from the farmer in Germany, just across the border. You don’t need much. Just the asparagus, clarified butter, new potatoes, ham and hard boiled egg.

A garden should be a living garden. “Spargelzeit”, was a tradition each springtime when the asparagus are in season. Fresh from the farmer in Germany, just across the border. You don’t need much. Just the asparagus, clarified butter, new potatoes, ham and hard boiled egg.

In June the garden resembles the poppy fields of Afghanistan.

In June the garden resembles the poppy fields of Afghanistan.

Early springtime has become a distant memory.

Early springtime has become a distant memory.

Winterswijk-Miste

With travel restrictions still in place, the most far distance I travel from Amsterdam is the Dutch region Achterhoek where they speak West Low German instead of Dutch.

In February we had an unexpected cold snap of a week because of an unstable polar vortex. The hour before sunset and the first hour after sunrise are spectacularly beautiful. The song lyrics of Normaal singing in ‘Achterhooks’, being part of Low Saxonian, captures the mood. This is my childhood between 3 - 18 years.

D’n onbewolkten winterloch, die liek meer peers dan blauw
A-j buuten iets te doene hebt, dan doe je ‘t bliksemsgauw
De kniens en de fazanten die scharrelt deur ‘t kruppelholt
De streupers die blieft binnen, ‘t is eur völs te kold.

't holt dat knetterd in de heerd, 't is der lekker heit
na de koffie kump de foezel, i-j krupt dichter bi-j ow meid
en as der goed gezoppen wurt, de verhalen die goat in het rond
is er niemand die nog dich an d'n armen, armen hond.

- D'n huulende waakhond (1978)

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If there are mountains

Yama areba yama o miru
ame no hi ame o kiku
haru natsu aki fuyu
ashita mo yoroshi
yūbe mo yoroshi

 

If there are mountains, I look at the mountains;
On rainy days I listen to the rain.
Spring, summer, autumn, winter.
Tomorrow too will be good.
Tonight too is good.

Taneda Santōka 種田 山頭火

23 October 2020

23 October 2020

31 October 2020.

31 October 2020.

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12 February 2021

12 February 2021

Nine days after the snow, crocus flowers appear in the green grass. Autumn, winter, spring.

21 February 2021

21 February 2021

Jungfrau-Aletsch

The last destination of my round trip was Jungfrau-Aletsch and its Aletschgletscher, the largest glacier of the Alps. To get there from Italy I had to cross the Simplon Pass at 2.005 meters and drive into the Rhonetal to reach Camping Eggishorn - z' Moosji in Fiesch. The car ride was stunning again. I just love driving in the mountains.

Simplonpass / Passo del Sempione.

Simplonpass / Passo del Sempione.

Jungfrau-Aletsch & Aletschgletscher

Märjelensee.

Märjelensee.

I normally never visit the same place twice but in case of the Aletschgletscher I had been there before, a little over ten years earlier. We hiked from Camping Eggishorn - z' Moosji along the glacier to Betten Talstation, if I remember correctly, and then by train back to Fiesch. This time I walked the same route alone. I also wanted to see the glacier again because our Alpine glaciers are symbols of climate change. It is estimated that by 2100 (just 80 years from now) only one tenth of the current ice mass of the Aletschgletscher will be left. A sobering thought. Because it is the largest glacier, the proces will be slow. By 2100 many other smaller Alpine glaciers will be long gone. Jungfrau-Aletsch is an UNESCO World Heritage property due to Outstanding Universal Value but that will not prevent the disappearance of its glaciers.

I hiked the following route: Fiescheralp - Mountain hut Gletscherstube - and along the glacier towards Moosfluh. At some point before Moosfluh I hiked back to Fiescheralp.

The first day in Fiesch I hiked to Fiescheralp from the camping but got lost halfway because I tried to take a less traveled route and ended up in the wrong valley. Time to execute plan B the next day. There is always a plan B.

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The ice mass in 2018.

The ice mass in 2018.

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The temperatures in the valley were well above 34 degrees Celsius and even high in the mountains it was quite hot. There was only one way to celebrate the last long hike of my journey: half a liter of ice cold beer, a fresh salad and a basic rösti.


Fußnote

On my way from Switzerland to Amsterdam I camped in Sankt Martin (Pfalz) for one night. It’s a lovely wine village with plenty of Weinschorles to order. I drank a Riesling, Blauer Portugieser and Müller-Thurgau-Schorle, which was one too many.

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Alpi Orobie, Lombardia

The Bergamo Alps (Italian: Alpi Orobie) are located about 30 kilometers above the city of Bergamo. I made a short stop in Peschiera del Garda on the shores of Lago di Garda but I found the place a bit too busy for my mood. I loved the oleander flowers though. There is a holiday photograph of my mother posing in front of oleanders somewhere in Italy in the 1960s. I have known this photo for many years, but recently I often dream of oleander flowers as a symbol of summer.

Lago di Garda.

Lago di Garda.

I drove on and found a beautiful camping on the shores of Lago d’Iseo. Camping Cave (address: via Cave 13, Iseo, Italy 25049) is located right on the lake. After pitching my tent it was no more than 100 metres to the lake and the (open air) restaurant and bar. Before doing anything else I jumped into the lake.

One of the things I love about Italy is the culture of aperitivo, the drink before dinner, and cicchetti. I prefer Campari Spritz (prosecco, Campari and soda water). It’s bitter and has a beautiful red color. Being camped on the shores of a lake with plenty of cold drinks, meant that each hike would end in a luxury I don’t always experience.

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Valgoglio

27 July 2020

A green wall of trees.

A green wall of trees.

For the first hike I drove to Valgoglio, which was quite a long ride from the camping through dozens of tunnels. The mountain roads were very busy with morning commuters. I didn’t have a map of this area since I only brought maps of Südtirol. I hiked along the river Goglio but when I was deciphering the sparse signs it was clear that the nearest mountain hut above the tree line was too far for a day hike. The Bergamo Alps are something else. The area feels very remote and I encountered few other hikers. Large parts of my hike I didn’t have a cell phone reception.

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When you spent so many holidays alone, you tend to get some compulsive thoughts while hiking, especially walking uphill. I contemplated a lot on the archetypal Uomo senza nome. ‘The Man With No Name’ was a marketing ploy to promote the spaghetti westerns A Fistful of Dollars (1964), For a Few Dollars More (1965), and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (1966) with Clint Eastwood. But the original man with no name was Toshiro Mifune’s character in Yojimbo. (the bodyguard) on which Sergio Leone based his 1964 movie. In the opening scenes the rōnin (浪人) arrives at a junction in the road, he shrugs his shoulders, picks up a stick and throws it high into the air. He lets fate decide which path to take; he follows the direction of the fallen stick and walks into a village. And so the story begins. I like the idea of not having a full plan when starting a hike. But even without a plan there is always a plan B.

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Rifugio Magnolini

28 July 2020

The second day I started my hike in Bossico after an other exhilarating car ride with many hairpin turns. From there is was a very hot but easy hike to Ceratello. During the hike there were some good views of the lake. The narrow road during the ascent to Rifugio Magnolini (1610 m.) was very steep. On the way down I took the foot path back to Bossico and my car, through pine forests and long rocky single tracks. This was one of the more beautiful hikes. Below the route I walked.

Day hike: Bossico - Rifugio Magnolini - Bossico.

Day hike: Bossico - Rifugio Magnolini - Bossico.

Lago d’Iseo.

Lago d’Iseo.

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On the way down I walked past a little stone hut marked as ‘ll cadi de la pest’ where the only Bossichesi who escaped the scourge of epidemic in 1630, sought refuge to escape the plague.

The region of Lombardy saw the most cases of COVID-19 by far in Italy. Notably Bergamo province was hard hit by the 2020 pandemic in March. On 8 March a quarantine lockdown was imposed for the whole region of Lombardy and 14 other northern provinces placing 16 million people under quarantine.

By the end of July 2020 quarantine was lifted but many measures were still in place. At the reception of Camping Cave my temperature was measured and face masks were mandatory in the camping toilet facilities. In general a face mask had to be worn in shops and in restaurants and mountain huts when ordering.

ll cadi de la pest.

ll cadi de la pest.

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By Giovanni Guida - Own work.


Europa endlos

Das Leben ist zeitlos
Europa endlos
Wirklichkeit und Postkartenbilder
Europa endlos
Eleganz und Dekadenz.

Kraftwerk, 1977.

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Last view of Lago d’Iseo before driving to Switzerland.

Last view of Lago d’Iseo before driving to Switzerland.